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By BoF InsightsMcKinsey & Company

Value players are elevating their brands defensively against ultra-low-cost rivals such as Shein and Temu, whose business models remain difficult to undercut, even as policy shifts erode some of their cost advantage. For example, value brands Bershka and H&M have reduced the share of SKUs in their lower price tiers across categories and markets between 2023 and 2025, according to data from EDITED.

Mid-market players are tapping into the growing demand for “affordable aspiration” from consumers who remain price-sensitive but increasingly prioritise quality and design. Zara has pioneered this strategy, taking aim at trend-focused shoppers seeking fashionable designs at more affordable prices than luxury ready-to-wear collections.

SoF Elevation Chart

Premium/bridge and affordable luxury players are seizing the white space created by the increase in luxury prices, which rose 61 percent on average between 2019 and 2025. Many aspirational consumers, also squeezed by inflation and seeking more creative inspiration from luxury brands, are opting to spend their disposable income elsewhere. Brands like Ralph Lauren are capitalising on this shift, increasing focus on categories like outerwear and bags, where customers are familiar with paying more. Similarly, French affordable luxury giant SMCP has reduced reliance on discounting to support the elevation of its brands, which it outlined as a key priority in 2025.

SoF Elevation Chart

Brand elevation depends on three pillars — price, product and brand experience

1. Price: increasing the share of products in higher price tiers and growing full-price sales

31% of global customers are willing to splurge on fashion, driven by both tangible and emotional factors.

Price architecture: Drive value perception by shifting more of the assortment into higher price tiers and introducing “hero” products in premium categories, reinforcing stronger brand positioning

Discounting: Preserve brand value by scaling back promotions and discounting, ensuring pricing signals remain consistent with an elevated image

Channel exposure: Protect brand equity by carefully restricting distribution through outlets and off-price channels, particularly for signature products

2. Product: improving product quality, durability and relevance

51% of global customers say quality is a key driver in creating a high-end brand perception, the highest of all attributes.

Quality: Elevate customer perception by investing in higher-grade materials that align product value with rising expectations for price-to-quality balance

Design: Strengthen long-term appeal by focussing product development on durability and versatile styling that extends wear and relevance

Collaborations: Expand reach into higher-spending segments by partnering with premium brands, leveraging their equity to enhance desirability and brand stature

3. Experience: elevating perception through retail stores and brand marketing

47% of global customers say a brand’s story is a key driver in creating a high-end brand perception.

Brand marketing: Build stronger resonance by refining brand voice and narratives, and by actively engaging in cultural conversations where relevant

Stores: Differentiate the brand experience by enhancing store formats and visual merchandising

E-commerce: Invest in creating editorial content, elevated visuals and improved customer journeys

Ambassadors: Amplify cultural impact by partnering with aspirational, brand-aligned influencers

Product and pricing adjustments are core to an elevation strategy

Many value brands are retreating from ultra-low-price tiers where players like Shein and Temu increasingly dominate. In the UK, Bershka reduced the share of SKUs priced below £25 (approximately $34) by 15 percent between 2023 and 2025, according to EDITED. H&M made similar moves during this time, reducing the share of bags in this bracket by 25 percent in the UK. H&M has been diversifying its offering with premium ranges and capsule lines, such as H&M Premium and the Studio Collection, as well as collaborations with designer brands.

In the mid-market and premium segments, brands are incrementally increasing core assortments within most price bands. They are also introducing hero products in the higher tiers that create a halo effect that lifts consumer perception of the entire collection. For example, COS released its £1,000 ($1,355) Nappa leather shearling jacket in 2025. This is part of a 9 percent increase in the share of outerwear SKUs priced over £175 ($237) between 2023 and 2025 in the UK, according to EDITED.

Brands should be cautious about raising prices too quickly or steeply, as this can alienate the customer and call into question the balance between quality and value and the brand’s right to play within the price segment. Brands can use consumer research and peer benchmarking to calibrate pricing moves.

SoF Elevation Chart

Higher prices demand superior quality and refreshed designs

Customers are expected to become more cautious with their spending in 2026. For those who do splurge, they will be paying special attention to signifiers of value for money, such as craftsmanship, durability and sharp creative direction. Brands that raise prices without improving quality or design risk alienating consumers and eroding brand equity.

Creative vision will play an outsized role in proving worth. For example, the wave of luxury creative director appointments at mass brands — including Zac Posen at Gap and Jonathan Saunders at & Other Stories — has injected a higher-end aesthetic into lower parts of the market. Gap also launched the premium line GapStudio in 2025, designed by Posen and featuring items like silk slip dresses and worn by celebrities on the red carpet.

Collaborations offer another route to import design authority and relevance into accessible price points. Partnerships such as JW Anderson with Uniqlo and Victoria Beckham with Mango deliver both credibility and access to a more aspirational audience. These collaborations are often positioned as limited editions, which generates desirability and exclusivity among consumers — even in a more price-conscious environment.

Marks & Spencer:

Marks & Spencer is elevating the style, fabrics and fit of its fashion offering. For example, the brand is leaning into real leather across coats, minidresses, skirts and shoes and is generating excitement by increasing novelty, refreshing two-thirds of its assortment each season while dedicating one-third to core basics. Fashion, Home & Beauty sales increased 3.5 percent in the fiscal year 2024 ending March 2025. Its premium Autograph range performed particularly strongly, with sales up 47 percent over the same period.

43% of global consumers say they care more about quality than ever before, up from 30 percent in 2023.

Uniqlo:

Uniqlo’s elevation strategy is centred around design authority and quality basics. Its premium essentials, such as its affordable cashmere sweater range, provide an alternative to trend-driven fast fashion. In 2023, the brand launched Uniqlo:C, a sub-label by Clare Waight Keller — formerly creative director of Givenchy and Chloé — focused on elevated everyday essentials and outerwear. In 2024, Keller assumed the role of creative director for the entire brand, expanding her remit to include Uniqlo’s core offering. Parent company Fast Retailing’s revenue grew 10.6 percent year on year in the nine months to May 2025, while operating profit expanded to 17.2 percent of revenue.

50% of global consumers say exclusivity creates a high-end brand image.

Product elevation only works when reinforced holistically across the brand experience

Borrowing aesthetic cues from luxury — across campaigns, editorials, photography and retail — can help justify elevated product positioning. For example, COS staged a ready-to-wear runway show at New York Fashion Week in September 2025, signalling its ambitions to extend its brand beyond the high street. While not every mass brand has a credible place on fashion week calendars, COS’ design-led aesthetic makes the case. Meanwhile, Zara’s use of famous fashion photographers such as Steven Meisel and Mario Sorrenti helps position it closer to high-end fashion.

Redesigned retail environments can offer similar signals and in-store service adds further weight. Aritzia’s personal style advisor approach to customer service is the backbone of its store experience, offering a high-touch styling journey like luxury department stores, which reinforces its premium positioning.

The same principles extend online. Websites and apps increasingly reflect elevated positioning through streamlined interfaces, lifestyle-driven storytelling and immersive visuals that replace function-focused user experiences.

There is a 76% correlation between a positive store experience and consumers’ perception of a brand as premium.

Zara’s High-Tech Concept Store:

In August 2025, Zara reopened its Manchester flagship in the UK with a new concept designed in an elevated format. The layout includes a series of curated rooms, each dedicated to collections such as Zara Origins, highlighting higher-value product lines. This zoning approach borrows from luxury retail, moving away from the uniform mass-market feel typical of fast fashion.

Technology is central to the redesign. Automated product sorting from fitting rooms to online orders, assisted return stations and app integration reduce friction and allow staff to spend more time on high-value customer interactions.

There is an 87% correlation between memorable and creative advertising campaigns and consumers’ perception of a brand as premium.

How should executives respond to these shifts?

Redesign product pyramids to signal elevated positioning

Build a product pyramid informed by consumer insights, balancing core assortments for the existing customer base with premium tiers aimed at capturing “splurge” purchases and recruiting more aspirational audiences.

Invest in material quality, craftsmanship and fit. Ensure consistency across the assortment to build credibility and trust with customers, which can translate into pricing power.

Introduce halo products in categories such as outerwear and leather goods that lift the perception of the entire brand.

Hire recognised creative talent to inject creativity and originality, or use capsule collections and designer collaborations to import design authority and generate excitement.

Adjust pricing architecture over a long-term horizon

Plan a multi-year brand elevation roadmap, emphasising gradual progress across multiple seasons over one-off drops or store renovations.

Use a combination of internal sales data and social listening tools to gauge price sensitivity across categories and define the brand’s price ceiling.

Place smaller-volume orders to limit overstock risk and reduce reliance on discounting to protect brand equity.

Reinforce positioning across the brand experience

Roll out the elevation strategy across the full brand experience — from communications to in-store environments. This means placing emphasis on elevated brand storytelling and cultural relevance while ensuring store design, visual merchandising and service standards signal the same aspirational positioning.

Online, brands can reinforce these cues through improved visuals, editorial content and frictionless user journeys that feel both premium and intuitive.

Higher-touch experiences more commonly found in luxury — such as personalised clienteling or exclusive community activations — can also build advocacy and deepen customers’ emotional connections

This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2026, an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company.

Feature image credit: Uniqlo

By BoF InsightsMcKinsey & Company

Sourced from BOF

By

The ‘new normal’ is a phrase that we are all currently being bombarded with from many sources as society starts to adjust to life under lockdown and people consider how life may be different once we come out the other side. As the everyday realities of their customers experience changes (some significant, others more subtle), brands are faced with the question of how, or indeed whether, to adapt their marketing to reflect these changes.

For many brands the idea of showing slick, aspirational advertising content in a time of global crisis is just not an appropriate option. Then of course there’s the more practical question of how new content is actually going to be created when most of us are confined to our own homes. The days of exotic location shoots and ensemble casts for TV ads are, at least temporarily, gone.

In its place we are seeing a seeing a significant rise in the use of user generated content (UGC) in marketing, featuring raw, hand shot footage from staff or customers which is designed to reflect our collective new reality and create an emotional connection with audiences. Examples include the likes of Apple, TSB, Tesco and Co-op, who recently replaced their original Easter campaign to promote the sale of Easter eggs for a new staff-led advert to highlight their support for food redistribution charity, Fareshare.

While many of these campaigns have been positively received, is UGC a form of content that is here to stay? Will it continue to be valued after this crisis has passed, or is it merely a temporary trend?

Here’s what two Mission Agency leads, themselves working with clients to adapt their marketing to the current climate, have to say on the subject:

Kate Cox, chief executive officer at Bray Leino:

”Creative comprising of user-generated content is clearly a practical way of getting around the physical filming restrictions during lockdown. Currently there is also an acceptance for ‘rough and ready’ content (be it commercials, programming, schooling, podcasts, radio shows). Plus, no brand wants to be insensitive creating extravagant production pieces or be seen to be defying official advice around social distancing, so UGC is a perfect workaround.

”Who knows what the future holds, but the chances are it will be a temporary trend. When the new normal comes, we will clearly have all learnt things, picked up new and effective ways of working and living, created new life habits etc, but we will also revert to some ‘old’ behaviours. Human nature and what drives us doesn’t fundamentally change, so it’s likely that marketing will continue to reflect this. The key is, we need great insight, variety in our ideas and our executions, one-size-fits-all is clearly not the way to go – it’s the opposite of standing out and having impact.”

John Quarrey, krow Group chief executive officer:

”UGC has offered a quick fix solution to the current production challenge for brands, but it isn’t, and shouldn’t be, the only solution we find for producing new content in a socially distanced world. Stop-frame, 2D & 3D animation, professional stills, self-shooters, influencers, re-editing of existing content are all production approaches largely unaffected by the lockdown and offer a wide variety of executional styles.

”Just as we shouldn’t be restricted to UGC as a production technique, we also need to avoid making execution the defining factor at the start of the communication process. Rigorous insight that delivers stand-out creative work will always have the greatest potential to transform business performance.

”As for whether brands should reflect the new normal in their ads, there is no easy answer. For most brands, using ‘slice of life’ vignettes to reflect the lives of its audiences seems an obvious and logical way to establish an empathetic connection. But beware the ’brandwagon’ – brands that are too late to the show and lack originality run the risk of blending in and themselves becoming the new normal. And brands with strong advertising equities or fluent devices might find that more of the same is better than a quick attempt to join in. Aside from that, I’d imagine most people are well ready for a break from the omnipresent Covid-19 coverage. Aligning too closely could see brands being screened out, not standing out.

”As the veil of global lockdown is slowly lifting, advertising will continually evolve to reflect our new social norms. The big questions being, what will those norms look like and which brands will be doing it best? It’s an exciting challenge for our industry.”

Now, more than ever, brands are having to evolve their products, services and communications to suit the shifting tides of consumer behaviours, demands and expectations. While UGC is undoubtedly a popular way to engage with consumers at this time, as marketers maybe our task right now should not be to hold a mirror up to the people of the country, but to take time to understand how the world around us has changed in the past few months. And how what people want to hear from brands has changed too.

By

Cat Davis, group marketing director at The Mission Group & Krow Group

Sourced from The Drum

Managers of premium brands face a perennial dilemma. How do you grow a premium brand without killing its soul?

By MediaStreet Staff Writers

A unique brand cachet attracts its core high-price-paying customers. But what happens when you seek to expand sales to the masses by offering lower prices? In recent years, outlet stores located hours away from glitzy shopping districts have sprung up everywhere. They are selling off-season and lower-tier merchandise at a fraction of regular retail prices. They have become significant sources of revenues.

The conventional wisdom is that relying on revenues from outlet stores can destroy the brand’s prestige over time. But according to a forthcoming study in the journal Marketing Science, outlet stores may actually help improve the brand’s cachet.

The study, “Why outlet stores exist: averting cannibalisation in product line extensions,” was authored by Donald Ngwe of Harvard Business School.

Ngwe analysed five years of customer sales data covering over 16 million customers and 27 million transactions from a major high-end fashion firm with hundreds of regular and outlet stores around the country. He found that the brand’s core customers are picky about wanting the latest products and are willing to pay premium prices, but are unwilling to travel very far to buy the brand.

In contrast, the larger mass of customers who aspire to consume this brand, but are price sensitive, are not only willing to travel the long distances to outlet stores, but are also not very picky in their tastes for the latest products and willing to tolerate lower quality. Therefore outlet stores expand revenues with limited cannibalisation of revenues from the core high paying customer base.

Taking into account this strong negative correlation between taste for quality and new products and willingness to travel for shopping among the core and mass segments, Ngwe modelled the firm’s product introductions in regular and outlet stores. He found two key results. First, the availability of outlets for selling older products to mass consumers means that firms can take more risk and introduce more new products at faster rates at its regular stores. Second, as outlet stores absorb the customer base of price-conscious customers who need less service, the firm can invest in greater service at regular stores. New product introduction at regular stores increases by as much as 16 percent. Ngwe said, “Here is the kicker. Even as outlet stores generate significant revenues from the masses, they help the brand increase its cachet among its core customers through more new products and higher service.”

The conventional wisdom that outlet stores can be detrimental to a premium brand’s health arises from failing to recognise the positive spillovers from outlet stores on regular retail stores. Ngwe noted, “For the brand we studied, there is little cannibalisation of regular store revenues by outlet stores. Moreover, outlet stores have positive spillovers in terms of higher service and more frequent new products in regular stores. So the net effect of outlet stores is to increase brand cachet.”

However, Ngwe cautioned, “Critical to our conclusion is that core customers would not shop at outlet stores due to their aversion to traveling long distances. This may not be true for customers of other brands, particularly lower end ones. Also, pure online brands cannot use travel distances to separate their core and mass customer segments. Online premium brands will need to find other means to differentiate their upscale and mass offerings.”

The complete paper is available here.